Chapter 1: A Surprising Getaway

This summer, my husband and I had the pleasure of spending a week in Burgas, a charming coastal city in Bulgaria, alongside some relatives and our two-year-old daughter. Despite Bulgaria’s reputation as the poorest member of the European Union, we were pleasantly surprised.

Even though we live in the picturesque Santa Monica, where the ocean meets Los Angeles, we seldom rave about what the area offers. Our motivations for staying are primarily the excellent public schools for my teenage stepdaughters, walkable streets, and favorable weather. The rest is rather complicated.

Here’s what we found lacking back home, contrasted with the delightful surprises in Bulgaria.

Section 1.1: Easy Access to the Sea

You might think that accessing the ocean would be straightforward in California, but in Santa Monica, the reality is different. To reach the water, you often have to cross a noisy highway, which can be a hassle, especially with a stroller.

We did discover one spot—Santa Barbara—where crossing a highway wasn’t necessary, but the house prices there quickly dashed our hopes of relocating. In contrast, in Burgas, we were captivated by the expansive views of the Black Sea, easily accessible from the park above, without any roads to navigate. The water was warm, and the sand pristine, allowing for uninterrupted strolls by the sea or along the picturesque overlook.

I would gladly choose easy access over the stunning views of Malibu any day. While Santa Monica boasts one of the world’s most beautiful drives, in Bulgaria, we enjoyed walking to the beach multiple times a day without complications.

Section 1.2: The Comfort of Benches

City planners in Burgas have prioritized livability over commercialism, resulting in a city that’s a joy to explore. Coming from California, we were amazed by the abundance of basic amenities like benches and playgrounds.

In Burgas, benches and playgrounds were ubiquitous, making it easy to relax or let children play. In Santa Monica, known for being “walkable,” public benches are scarce, often occupied by the homeless. Those in parks are frequently unavailable, and the main shopping areas have chairs locked up to deter usage.

For someone like me, who has back issues yet enjoys walking, the presence of benches was a significant comfort. I can only hope that one day, our city will consider similar improvements. Until then, I’ll continue to find spots to rest on the curb.

Subsection 1.2.1: Playgrounds Galore

Playgrounds in Los Angeles are scattered, though we’re fortunate to have two within a half-hour walk. Unfortunately, reaching them often involves crossing numerous busy intersections, not ideal for a child’s health.

In Bulgaria, playgrounds are a central aspect of seaside life. Entering the expansive park along the coast felt like stepping into Disneyland, with playgrounds, fountains, outdoor cafes, and ice cream stalls at every turn. Families and dogs filled the area, creating a vibrant atmosphere.

I watched my daughter play and splash in the fountain with local children, and I couldn’t help but smile. It wasn’t extravagant, but it was incredibly inviting. In Santa Monica, the closer you get to the beach, the noisier and more chaotic it becomes, with overpriced dining options and heavy traffic.

Section 1.3: Affordability for All

If the outdoor spaces and beach weren’t enough, Burgas also offered a plethora of restaurants and cafes at reasonable prices. They were not only affordable for tourists like us, but also for locals. Dining options were plentiful, catering to every taste and budget.

Outdoor kiosks selling delicious ice cream for about a dollar were everywhere, and they also offered beer at nearly supermarket prices. Such accessibility allowed people to enjoy their time outdoors, often on benches.

In Santa Monica, the only beachside cafe charges exorbitant prices for basic items, making each visit feel less cozy and more like a rip-off.

Chapter 2: A Relaxed Atmosphere

On our first night in Burgas, we found ourselves on a balcony well past midnight, observing the lively street below. People walked by with their dogs and infants in strollers, enjoying the late-night ambiance. It seemed that going out was a part of everyday life in seaside Bulgaria, regardless of the day or hour.

In California, seeing people out after midnight, especially on a weekday, is a rarity. Children typically disappear from public spaces by 7 PM. The atmosphere in California, while busy, rarely feels festive in the way that Burgas did.

My husband remarked, “I can’t believe how late it is, and yet it feels so peaceful.” We noted how such a relaxed vibe would be hard to find in the noisy U.S.

“It’s like Americans don’t really know how to unwind properly,” he concluded with a laugh. While some aspects of our Bulgarian experience, like smoking in restaurants, may not translate back home, there are certainly lessons to be learned about prioritizing enjoyment over material concerns.